Tuesday, December 18, 2007

Lay Your Head On My Star-Spangled Shoulder

I am just a few hours away from hopping on a plane bound for the States and the excitement is palpable. It's been a rather USA themed-day. Kenneth and I had burgers for lunch at the new Gourmet Burger Kitchen on George Street; I may or may not have sung God Bless America on the bus; and now I'm cleaning up the flat in my new favorite t-shirt (pictured above) -- a birthday gift from the irreplaceable Bridget 'B-Force' Mohan.

I have a marathon journey tomorrow. If you were flying from Scotland to South Carolina would you go through Germany? Well, Orbitz does. I have a six hour layover in Frankfurt. The only German I know is "Albrecht Durer" and "Die Zauberflote," which means I'll be fine if the man at the information desk is a fan of apocalyptic woodcuts or late 18th century Singspiels.

If all goes according to plan I will be landing in Charleston, SC tomorrow evening around 7 o'clock. If that doesn't work out, I'll be the one in the I'm famous in Asheville, NC shirt wandering around Frankfurt muttering Pa-Pa-Pa-Pa-Papageno under my breath.

Merry Christmas dear Scottish ones; see you in 2008!

Monday, December 17, 2007

The Best Little Stories of 2007, Vol 1

I was scrolling back through the blog recently and noticed a trend; that is, a lot of the smaller anecdotes from last year were tragically lost in the shuffle of major themes. I also managed to leave out a lot of the larger anecdotes -- particularly those occuring during trips abroad -- and that, my friends, is a grave error.

So, as the year comes to a close, I thought I would rectify those omissions with a new series: TBSO2007. And hopefully I will make it past volume 1.

Most of what is missing are the funny things that Jamie and I did together. Man, living with her was the best. What's that song? You don't know what you got 'till it's gone? Yeah, it's like that. We shared a bedroom and literally never fought. We travelled to Paris, Amsterdam, London, and followed The Avett Brothers around the UK in a manner not unlike a pack of pre-teen girls. Everything was a photo or fashion opportunity, and everything was funny. It was a great semester.

I knew it was going to be big fun from the moment I went to pick her up at the train station in Edinburgh. She had been travelling for days; every flight out of North Carolina was delayed, and after missing her connection in Manchester she decided to get on the train with what must have been a hundred suitcases and at least fourteen gallons of hair product (her unswerving devotion to product is one of the things I love most). We rolled loudly through the station with bottles flying everywhere, laughing crazily and generally letting Scotland know that Jamie Had Arrived. As we turned a corner a pidgeon flew at our feet. Jamie ran at it wildly and yelled 'get out of my way pidgeon! You don't know me!' -- and lo, our catchphrase for the next four months was born.

Everywhere we went after that; the Union, Tesco, the Musee de Cluny in Paris; we said it: "You don't know me, tuesday night Bop!" or "You don't know me, Den Haag!" It worked for everything.

By the time spring break rolled around we were itching to go someplace exotic, or at least somewhere that wasn't the three narrow streets of St Andrews. We decided to storm London, Paris and Amsterdam, as we knew native speakers in all three cities (it's the Queen's English in London, you see) and airline tickets were relatively cheap. In London we would see Harry Potter naked, dance the night away in chav heaven, and visit Botticelli at the National Gallery. Paris meant trips to the Louvre, taking lovers' walks along the Pont Neuf, and having baguette fights in the Jardin de Luxembourg. In Amsterdam we would visit the Anne Frank House, tiptoe through the tulips, and examine Vermeer's interiors. Oh, and, of course, spend some time hooker watching after we light up a big fat doobie. I know you were thinking it.

[Somewhere in Durham, North Carolina my grandmother just said 'Oh Lauren!' at her computer screen.]

We had been travelling for 10 days by the time we got to Amsterdam, and my throw-caution-to-the-wind traveling style had backfired big time in the accommodation department. We had arrived in town on a Friday afternoon (rookie mistake) and every rentable bed in the city that didn't belong to a window hooker was taken. We walked up and down the Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal until we were visibly perspiring and Dutch words started to look reasonable. It was at that point I knew the madness was setting in. I've been traveling around on a shoestring for a while now and never, ever have I been so defeated.

[Ok, that's not true, I once spent a lonely night on the floor of the Bad Schandau train station in the middle of the Czech Republic, my arms and legs wound through the straps of my backpack to ward off thieves, clutching a handful of money, and praying for daylight. That was maybe a little worse... but at least I wasn't so sweaty.]

I finally took us back to a place I had stayed two years before (the name escaped me then, and does to this day, but I remembered it because it was above a gay bar called The Getto) and practically begged the owner to find us a bed. All I will say about the hotel owner is that his name is Otto, he has a formidable beard, and he looks exactly like the type of man who might own a crumbly motel in Amsterdam. He also has cats. Lots of them.

Otto explained to us that he didn't have a bed left in this motel, but for a nominal fee he could rent us a small apartment across the city for the weekend. He could have charged us 80 euros to sleep in his beard with the cats and I would have said yes, so we happily trundled across town with Otto and his jolly wife to check out our new digs.

As we crossed the canal into the Red Light District I thought man, this is funny, we're in the Red Light District. Red Light District. Man. Hilarious. The prostitutes watched us pass with their steely gaze; one even tapped the glass like she was eyeing me at the zoo. Jamie managed to catch my reaction on film at the precise moment when I saw Otto reach for the door of our place, and they say a picture is worth a thousand words, so here it is:

[I like to think I look ironic and spontaneous, but the truth is if you could have heard my thoughts it would have sounded like this: ohmygodohmygodohmygodohmygodohmygod]

He took us through a series of six -- SIX -- locked doors to a third floor apartment that was surprisingly lush by our standards. We even had a tiny kitchen for making pancakes in the morning! My initial horror turned into infinite delight when I realized that we were staying in the Dutch Fort Knox and you could look down from our windows and see four different brothels. The people watching! My god! We showered and got ready to go back out (ok, Jamie showered and I just changed my pants) and Jamie managed again to capture my mood perfectly as we left the apartment:

Nice to meet you -- The name's Lauren and I'm darn glad to be here!

Charlie came down on the train from his home in Leiden and we hit the town for a big night out. There was dancing, Febo, and a man on fire. Since we're not 19 anymore we were ready for bed by 3 am, and Charlie offered to walk us back to the apartment and spend the night on the floor by the door for protection (good on him). By the time we got back to the apartment the brothels were in full swing. Immune to the hypnotic pull of the women in windows, Charlie fell asleep on our couch while Jamie and I moved idly to the window to witness the goings-on three floors below. We leaned our heads against the glass and stared down like people possessed, watching the stag parties and German tourists stumble by in raucous droves.

We must have stood there for an hour when Jamie broke the absorbed silence with a cry of panic: "Lauren! They're watching us!" Sure enough, a handful of working ladies had spotted us in our rear window glory and were glaring menacingly in our direction. I'm fairly certain one woman even pantomimed a stabbing motion as if to say simply, I Will Cut You. Jamie and I looked at each other in abject terror and simultaneously hit the floor -- anything to get out of the sight lines of the angry hookers before they could remember our faces well enough to describe them to their knuckle-cracking boyfriends. As we lay on the floor I looked at Jamie and said "what if they come up here and stab us for real?" She looked back at me, stood up slowly, and yelled out the cracked window: YOU DON'T KNOW ME RED LIGHT DISTRICT!

Sunday, December 16, 2007

A Storm Cloud Hanging in Dystrophy

... I've been off the grid this past week due to a computer outage. Fed up with the Microsoft troubleshooter I decided to simply restore my computer to factory settings. I tell you what, nothing says 'Merry Christmas' like what is effectively a brand new computer. This is the third time I've had to wipe out my hard drive in two years. Discuss.

Anyways, just a wee note to say I'M BACK and I'm flying home on Wednesday!

Tuesday, December 11, 2007

Hundreds and Thousands

I've heard low rumours that my day-to-day movements are still mired in obscurity and you, dear readers, don't like it one bit. As attractive as it is to be a mysterious and elusive international citizen (in my mind, someone not unlike Pussy Galore), I thought I would write about my typical day -- in this case, today -- in an effort to clear up any misconceptions. I'm not sure how entertaining it will be, but everyone seems to like reality TV despite it being essentially boring, so here you go:

7:32 am: Wake up with pillow creases on my cheek. My bed is from Ikea and is nothing more than a glorified futon. The mattress is rock-hard and I sleep rougher on that slab of foam than I ever have before. I wake up befuddled and busted after the mattress beats up on me all night. But it's not the mattress's fault, really. It's mine. I make him do it. God, I love him.

7:33 - 8:27: Try on approximately 347 possible outfits, discard them all, and instead wear the same outfit (with a change of shirt) from yesterday.

8:32: Finish up breakfast of porrage oats and a pint of milky tea; wrap myself up in scarves, gloves, hats (plural), wellies; grab handbag and waddle out the door.

8:34: Stop at the fruitierers around the corner from my flat and buy three oranges. I go in that shop every morning, and I have never seen the shopkeeper off the phone. He wears a turban, but I'm not being racist.

8:36: Battle my way up Leith Walk through the hoardes of commuters, homeless, and people who are still weaving about, drunk from the night before. There is headstand-bucket man and burnt-face lady to contend with. Everyone wants a piece of me and it is often quite windy. The sun won't rise for another hour, so it's easy to feel like you never went to sleep and instead are just popping to the grocery store for some milk after a long day of work -- WAIT, YOU'RE GOING TO WORK AGAIN.

8:42: Step in dog poo, attempt removal on the side of a building. Just so happens it is the Louis Vuitton store.

8:54: Turn the corner onto George Street and break into a sprint. It's less of a sprint and more of that crazed-puppet-skip you do when you're running in a pencil skirt and three inch heels. In that last fifty yards I have been known to knock down bankers, executives, tourists and lines of school children. I don't discriminate; I am an equal opportunity hurrier.

9:02: Breeze through reception as if I haven't been running Forrest Gump-style down the poshest street in Edinburgh and wait seven minutes for the ancient lift (elevator) to groan its way down to the lobby.

9:04: Arrive at desk, hang up coat, put the kettle on. I have officially become addicted to tea. I'm not a person with many habits or addictions -- I can barely remember to floss -- but I find myself so desperate for a cup of tea in the morning that it borders on something much more dangerous.

9:06: Start up computer and gaze lovingly at my bursting in-tray. Black out for the next three hours.

12:06: It is lunch time? When did that happen? What have I been doing? Why are there 463 untitled excel spreadsheets open on my desktop?

12:06: Call Nancy and arrange to have lunch somewhere nice. In this case, a wee pub called Amicus Apple that is just around the corner from work. No one is just going to give you a two hour lunch break. You have to make that time yourself.

1:06: Could only take an hour for lunch; not as much of a BAMF as I thought. Start valuation for Erchless Castle in Argyll. Get hung up on spelling of 'Kircudbright' (pronounced Kur-koo-bree) halfway through the contents of the East Wing.

1:17: Charles, our senior valuer, calls from the road to ask about something; unfortunately he is driving through the midlands where they are still banging rocks together to make fire so a cell phone signal is out of the question. I hear "Hallo... gothic chairs ........ buy them, however ..... poppycock ...... cheers old bean." I hang up on him. I have difficulty understanding Charles when he is standing beside me. He talks like Hugh Grant, only deeper and more choppy. He also stores his canoe in the basement.

1:27: Laugh again about how everyone I work with sounds like Christina from Ugly Betty.

1:41: Find myself yet again in a situation where being an American is to my disadvantage: I have to address a letter to a man named Major Lord Sir James Falconer. Is it Sir Falconer, Lord James? Major F? Yo Jamie? I phone our managing director and ask her because she is posh, and I like to look as colonial as possible to the people in charge. She says it is Sir James and laughs that far-away laugh that means "you silly Yank."

1:45: Sign and address the letter four different times in an effort to get the S just right. You only get to write a letter to a knight so many times in your life.

2:02: Worry I am getting carpel tunnel, so spend four or fifteen minutes working out a way to raise my computer screen to eye level. End up stacking monitor on top of a pile of old Christie's catalogs, one of which has misspelled 'furniture' on the spine... wonder which proofreader got fired in May of 2000 and what they are doing now. Probably working for us.

2:27: Nancy calls and says she is FREAKING OUT because a painting she wanted from last week's sale was unsold and she could probably get it on re-offer for £100. We go downstairs to look at it. I tell her I hate Asian art (but not Asian people; again, not racist) and she says she loves it. We are at an impasse, so I say "I think it would look lovely in your flat" because that's the truth, Asian art or no.

2:39: Drink seventh cup of tea for the day, wonder where my steady hands have gone.

3:01: Neil makes fun of me for the 893rd time about the two expensive Japanese ceramics I destroyed last week. I didn't tell you about that, did I? Shame. Literally everyone at the office has a story about breaking a priceless antique. Kenneth snapped a table in half on his first day. I was something of a golden child for making it as long as I did without smashing anything, so needless to say that when I fell, I fell hard. When I was lotting up for the ceramics sale last week I managed to drop the detachable base of a cast-iron urn from the top of a high shelf. If it had hit the carpet it would have been fine, but somehow it managed to land smack dab in the middle of a pile of 16th century porcelain. The top two plates were destroyed -- and I don't mean they broke into several jagged pieces that could possibly be glued back together -- I mean they were reduced to a fine, 16th century handpainted powder. Our managing director was in the next room, too. After the terrible, heart-rending crash that sounded like what I imagine the end of days must sound like, she yelled "WHAT HAVE YOU DESTROYED." It wasn't a question.

3:02: I apologize for the 13287th time about reducing two valuable plates to fairy dust.

3:09: Call Nancy in her office so she can console me about the plates. She asks, "did you do it because they were Asian?"

4:12: Kenneth wanders around the fourth floor, stopping at everyone's desk to say hello. He gives me a piece of gum. He goes over to Bruce and asks if he wants a piece of gum. Bruce says "how old are you, aren't you coming up on 30 now?"

4:18: Attach images for the Seaward valuation and marvel over crap that clutters the homes of the wealthy. A white panther skin? Candlesticks made of silver-mounted ostrich feet? Yeah, I'd have both.

4:33: Wander downstairs to drop off a pile of letters that need posting and go to cast my vote for the office awards. Decide who to nominate for 'Rear of the Year' and then wonder whether they mean 'Great Bum of the Year' or 'Biggest Jerk of the Year' as these are quite dispirate interpretations. I nominate Iain because he could go either way.

4:45: Realize I have approximately four more hours worth of work to get through and only 45 minutes left in the day.

4:46: Debate the merits of staying late, remember I did it the last four nights, and put the kettle on.

5:30 Having spent the rest of the day writing this blog, I realize that even if I wanted to tell you about some of the things I work on during the day I couldn't. When I was hired I signed a confidentiality contract and, well, there's nothing like writing a blog about things you aren't legally allowed to talk about to make sure you get fired. Antiques dealing is serious business; don't let the swanky parties and foppish outfits fool you. If you betray us, we will break your legs.

Ok, maybe not. Regardless, it's 5:31, I'm going home.

Chapter Two: My Day in St Andrews -- oooh!

Monday, December 10, 2007

Britain 1, USA 0

-----Original Message-----
From: Harriet B
Sent: 10 December 2007 12:10
To: Edinburgh Office
Subject: Awards 2007


Dear All,

For those of you missing from the Monday morning meeting (and an extra reminder to those who were present):

At our Christmas party this Thursday there will also be an awards ceremony. Being democratic, I have devised a sophisticated voting system on the filing cabinet beside my desk. When you have time, please complete a voting form and put in the ballot box by 4pm Thursday.

Many thanks,

Harriet


-----Original Message-----
From: Lauren N
Sent: 10 December 2007 12:11
To: Harriet B
Subject: RE: Awards 2007


If you need any advice on running a proper democracy I will be available all week.

with love from The Mighty U.S.A.



-----Original Message-----
From: Harriet B
Sent: 10 December 2007 12:12
To: Lauren N
Subject: RE: Awards 2007


many thanks, L. perhaps you could help with counting the votes? ;)

HATTIE B!

Thursday, December 06, 2007

Two Days in St Andrews: A Retrospective

Fellow Giorgione scholars.

The view from class.

Evelyn.

Slide exam.

David: deep thoughts.

Leuchars train station.

Our wayward scholar!

Tuesday, December 04, 2007

I Am Quite Gangster Myself

I'm not one to crave foods, but today I was pretty certain that if I did not get a turkey in my mouth I would most likely die. Goes to show you can only refute your god-given American Holidays for so long. I stopped by Tesco on the way home from work and picked up two turkey breasts, grilled them, and ate them within the hour. Bless you, pilgrims. I ate them the way we used to eat salisbury steak in the grade school cafeteria: spearing them with a fork and eating all the way around it like a turkey popsicle. Now that I've finished I can't stop thinking about stuffing. And yams. And pie. Mmm pie.

IN OTHER NEWS: Last night was the private view (or "PV" as the smooth operators call it) for the December fine sales. I descended from my fourth floor valuations cocoon to sip free wine and stalk the canape waitress around the first floor sale room. It was good fun; about 250 people showed up to do basically the same thing I did, though they did an excellent job of pretending to look at the items up for sale. Several funny things happened; particularly the Ikea clothes racks collapsing one after another under the weight of so many fine coats, but the prize winner was the little old lady who tried to steal a wheel of brie by placing it under her hat. A whole wheel! I also talked to a very intoxicated man whom Iain has dubbed "the last bastion of pure Englishness" about what it was like to deal antiques during WWII. He told me a funny story about finding an original copy of Ruskin in a tiny cottage in Pittenweem, and when he went to consign it his car blew up "because of the damn Germans." As I was placing that gentleman in a cab, David Jones arrived from Cupar and we shut the place down discussing the merits of wych elm dining chairs. Ah, furniture, an addiction undying!

I'd like to say a word or two about the Christmas spirit and that is, don't worry about Edinburgh, we've got it covered. On my way to and from work I would say I walk underneath approximately 4.8 million christmas lights. It's very festive. Princes Street Gardens, the lovely rolling park in the middle of town, has been crammed to bursting with a get-up that puts the NC State Fair to shame. There are fair rides, a German market and an ice skating rink. We tried to go ice skating on Sunday but were understandably deterred by the hoardes of inexperienced skaters with razor-sharp blades strapped to their uncontrollable feet.

In the merry spirit of the season I've taken a few photos around town to share with you, including this one of my work place, since very few of you have actually seen it:I should say, for the record, that Iain's office is in the basement and not underneath a BMW. The first four floors are salerooms and at the moment it's chockablock with some mighty fine antiques. Sadly they will be mostly sold by the end of the week, but I will always be thankful for the little time we had together.

Here is the Princes Street Gardens she-bang. Check out that FERRIS WHEEL.
See the ice skating rink? Go there and you have a good chance of having one or more fingers sliced off. Give the Scots some skates and they go crazy!
This was taken as I left work today, looking down George Street from the office:
As my dad says, Merry Christmas Dammit.

This rather inviting place is called The Dome, and it is a particularly fabulous pub just down the way from work. I'm pretty sure they pipe in the smell of cinnamon, because for real, it is the best smelling pub I've ever been to. It's like Bath and Body Works in there. Makes me want a christmas cookie something fierce. Here is what the inside looks like, just imagine the cinnamon smell and you're there:

Unlike my former neighbors, I wouldn't mind if they left their lights up all year.
And on a completely unrelated note, THIS glorious shop front is my favorite shop front in the whole world. Who needs Christmas lights when you have A THIRD EYE:

G Brigade is a Nepalese restaurant at the top of Leith Walk. I pass it every day. I'm pretty convinced I need to eat there at least once before I leave. The real question is whether I really feel that way or are the eyes making me believe it? I'm not sure. Feeling suddenly sleepy.... turkey or Gurkha Brigade? You tell me.

Saturday, December 01, 2007